After several weeks of summer traveling, visiting family and friends along our attractive New England coastline, the cool weather has brought me back to my senses and my task of finding the perfect wines for the approaching days of Autumn. We recently tasted several extraordinary wines from the northern Burgundian producer Ghislaine and Jean-Hugues Goisot and although I usually keep my recommendations to one at a time, I feel compelled to endorse a white and a red from this notable grower! The Goisot family estate is traced to the 14th century and is located in the picturesque villages of Saint Bris and Irancy. With completely estate grown vineyards in the appellations of Saint Bris and Côtes d'Auxerre, all of Goisot's wine are vinified in the ancient village within the cellars, dating to the 11th and 12th centuries. In other words, this winery is as 'old school' as you can imagine and their wines reveal such a deceptive purity of character and expression that I was awe struck by their quality and precision. If you are unfamiliar with the wines of the Auxerrois, the wines of the Goisot will surely entice you!
Their 2007 Sauvignon Saint-Bris 'Exogyra Virgula' is classic Sauvignon Blanc (with Sauvignon Gris) from Burgundy's northernmost appellation of Saint-Bris. Much like its neighboring village of Chablis, this white has persistent minerality and focus due to the deep, chalky Kimmeridgien soils of the region. This white could easily rival any of the top bottlings of Sancerre with its bright, complex citrus fruits and vibrant acidity.
The 2006 Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre' Pinot Noir 'Corps de Garge' is also an amazing find. Although this region is planted almost exclusively to white varietals, this red shines on its own merit and Goisot's Pinot Noir is the best in the region, including the area of Chablis in that assessment! Similar to the wines from the villages of Mercurey or Givry, this red has a delicate smoky core with great Pinot Noir acidity and interesting depth thanks to the chalky soils of the town of Irancy. With a bouquet of violets, forest floor and red berries, the palate of this red is harmonious and yielding.
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Goisot 'Saint Bris' 2007 Sauvignon 'Exogyra Virgula'
Goisot Bourgogne 'Côtes d'Auxerre' 2006 Pinot Noir 'Corps de Garde'
