Schug Pinot Noir 2006 Carneros

I have to admit that I am sometimes skeptical of domestic wineries, particularly those where seven or eight different varietals all seem to flourish in one appellation. It is essential for grapes to suffer, to weather the rain, the fog, the sun, the frost, etc. That brings me to discuss Schug Carneros Estate and the merits of their Carneros Pinot Noir. The California wine industry would not be what it is today without the influence of such visionaries as Walter Schug. Being the founding winemaker of Joseph Phelps in the 1970s, Walter Schug crafted California's first proprietary red blend (Insignia) and was also responsible for the legendary vineyard designated Cabernets from Bacchus and Eisele vineyards. With this experience and his love of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, he founded his current winery in 1980 where the cool, marine climate of Carneros called his name. His 50 acre estate is situated in the southern lowlands of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, just southwest of the town of Sonoma. This region benefits from the cool, coastal air of the Bay and the Pacific Ocean and is blanketed with a brisk fog throughout the summer months. This fog slowly burns off during the late morning hours and is then replaced midday by winds that rush through what is known at the Petaluma Gap, a break between two mountains which creates a wind-tunnel across the vineyards. Why is this microclimate so important? It goes back to my earlier point about grapes and their need to strive for existence. All of these factors are essential for great Pinot Noir, that fickle thin-skinned red grape and Schug Carneros Estate respects the varietal in all of its glory. The 2006 Carneros release shows all of the purity of fruit that one would expect from a Burgundian Pinot Noir but with a brightness and abundance of flavor that is unmistakably Carneros. By carefully blending several separately vinified lots, Schug creates a wine with great complexity and elegance. Its bouquet of spiced red fruits and toasted oak is complemented by a palate of red cherry and strawberry fruit tones, smooth, silky tannins and gentle acidity. Just a whisper of eucalyptus lingers on this wine's spicy, zesty finish. Pair this red with duck, lamb or even your grilled fish of choice and you will not be disappointed.

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