Domaine Morin Bourgogne Chitry 2006

Just when I think I have a handle on Burgundy, I have the opportunity to taste a wine that is completely unfamiliar to me yet somehow incredibly familiar and worthwhile. The wine of which I speak is from the village of Chitry, more specifically, Chitry-le-Fort. This commune in the Auxerrois district of the Yonne department of north eastern France lies closely to the austere region of Chablis and thus, the most remote and northern slice of what is considered Burgundy. Upon greeting the bouquet of Olivier Morin's Chitry, I was quickly reminded of a steely Sancerre or perhaps a minerally, focused Chablis, for the clear, precise, flinty citrus notes and the hint of honeysuckle seemed to conjure memories of traveling in the Loire valley or even spending time in the Champagne region and enjoying white Burgundy years ago. When I began to research this obscure region, the pieces of the puzzle solidified. The soils of the Chitry appellation are comprised of Jurassic clay-limestone from the Kimmeridgian series. The village of Chablis has become famous for its kimmeridgian chalk terroir while the Loire valley boasts an unparalleled limestone terroir. Could this regional wine of Burgundy possess the like? YES. With a rich golden color and flecks of green, this 100% Chardonnay is balanced and harmonious with Sancerre like gunflint and Chablis like minerality that is unyielding. In addition, Olivier's small production Chitry offers a snappy, savage grape skin sensation and texture that is captivating and quite frankly, delicious. With lingering notes of wet slate, mineral and lemon peel, this Chardonnay reveals its complexity and depth. To create the ultimate sensation, pair with escargot, charcuterie, shellfish or foraged mushrooms and take a tour of white Burgundy like never before.



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Lalande Couturier 2005

This past Saturday, we held a small Bordeaux tasting featuring the wines of Jean-Luc Thunevin, the infamous 'bad boy' of the Right Bank. I have to say that there were many standouts from the lineup and for me, perhaps the most surprising wine, was also the most affordable. That brings me to discuss Lalande Couturier 2005. First of all, if Jean-Luc Thunevin is not a familiar name to you, let me enlighten you. Jean-Luc and his wife Murielle Andraud have single-handedly created the 'vins de garage' movement in France. In 1989, they purchased a miniscule .6-hectare parcel in a small valley near Saint Emilion and thus, the 'garage' wine Château Valandraud was born. Since their first release in 1991, they have slowly acquired more and more parcels in various appellations on the Right Bank as well as new properties in the Languedoc and most recently, Margaux. Their philosophy of creating micro-cuvées originating from extremely low yields and incredibly ripe fruit, has garnered the Thunevins the praise of many. The Lalande-Couturier, like all of their wines, speaks of fruit and terroir in a most gracious and memorable manner. Coming from a small 4 hectare vineyard owned by one of Thunevin's employees in the village of St Palais de Blaye, this red Bordeaux is focused, elegant and surprisingly rich. Jean-Luc ferments and ages this red in stainless steel vats and the result is quite impressive. It allows the Merlot varietal to reveal its true character and potential when grown in the sandy, deep red clay soils of the Côtes de Blaye. With a nose of deep red fruits, mint, coffee and gravel, this red has a palate of dark plum and cassis with touches of sandalwood and menthol. The tannins add an interesting textural element to this wine's finish without being too overpowering. Pair with a steak or whatever else you may be grilling this evening, sit back and enjoy a stellar sampling of Bordeaux from the praised 2005 vintage (without breaking the bank).

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