Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006

In the valley of Conca d'Oro (the Golden Basin) just south of the town of Panzano are the illustrious vineyards of Fontodi. This estate, dating back to the times of the Roman empire, is at the epicenter of the Chianti Classico region and much like another favorite producer of mine, Felsina, seems to churn out remarkable bottlings year after year and the new release of their 2006 Chianti Classico is no exception. The Manetti family, with three centuries of heritage in the Tuscan region as terracotta manufacturers, decided to purchase the estate in 1968 and it is now Giovanni Manetti who is in charge. Granted this winery has garnered its most praise for its Flaccianello della Pieve bottling but their straight Chianti Classico is well worth a look, particularly for the avid Tuscan collector. This 100% Sangiovese bottling beautifully showcases the philosophy of the Fontodi estate as it represents the soil characteristics of the region thanks to its optimal southern exposure vineyards and the natural marl soil with its excellent drainage. With layers of dusty, tobacco laden cherry fruit on the palate and aromas of spiced plum and earth, this red is rich and yielding and shows all the graciousness of character of the 2006 vintage. If you have yet to discover the wines of Fontodi, this one will have you hooked and like me, you will more than likely become one of Fontodi's new followers for years to come!

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Domaine Morin Bourgogne Chitry 2006

Just when I think I have a handle on Burgundy, I have the opportunity to taste a wine that is completely unfamiliar to me yet somehow incredibly familiar and worthwhile. The wine of which I speak is from the village of Chitry, more specifically, Chitry-le-Fort. This commune in the Auxerrois district of the Yonne department of north eastern France lies closely to the austere region of Chablis and thus, the most remote and northern slice of what is considered Burgundy. Upon greeting the bouquet of Olivier Morin's Chitry, I was quickly reminded of a steely Sancerre or perhaps a minerally, focused Chablis, for the clear, precise, flinty citrus notes and the hint of honeysuckle seemed to conjure memories of traveling in the Loire valley or even spending time in the Champagne region and enjoying white Burgundy years ago. When I began to research this obscure region, the pieces of the puzzle solidified. The soils of the Chitry appellation are comprised of Jurassic clay-limestone from the Kimmeridgian series. The village of Chablis has become famous for its kimmeridgian chalk terroir while the Loire valley boasts an unparalleled limestone terroir. Could this regional wine of Burgundy possess the like? YES. With a rich golden color and flecks of green, this 100% Chardonnay is balanced and harmonious with Sancerre like gunflint and Chablis like minerality that is unyielding. In addition, Olivier's small production Chitry offers a snappy, savage grape skin sensation and texture that is captivating and quite frankly, delicious. With lingering notes of wet slate, mineral and lemon peel, this Chardonnay reveals its complexity and depth. To create the ultimate sensation, pair with escargot, charcuterie, shellfish or foraged mushrooms and take a tour of white Burgundy like never before.



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Lalande Couturier 2005

This past Saturday, we held a small Bordeaux tasting featuring the wines of Jean-Luc Thunevin, the infamous 'bad boy' of the Right Bank. I have to say that there were many standouts from the lineup and for me, perhaps the most surprising wine, was also the most affordable. That brings me to discuss Lalande Couturier 2005. First of all, if Jean-Luc Thunevin is not a familiar name to you, let me enlighten you. Jean-Luc and his wife Murielle Andraud have single-handedly created the 'vins de garage' movement in France. In 1989, they purchased a miniscule .6-hectare parcel in a small valley near Saint Emilion and thus, the 'garage' wine Château Valandraud was born. Since their first release in 1991, they have slowly acquired more and more parcels in various appellations on the Right Bank as well as new properties in the Languedoc and most recently, Margaux. Their philosophy of creating micro-cuvées originating from extremely low yields and incredibly ripe fruit, has garnered the Thunevins the praise of many. The Lalande-Couturier, like all of their wines, speaks of fruit and terroir in a most gracious and memorable manner. Coming from a small 4 hectare vineyard owned by one of Thunevin's employees in the village of St Palais de Blaye, this red Bordeaux is focused, elegant and surprisingly rich. Jean-Luc ferments and ages this red in stainless steel vats and the result is quite impressive. It allows the Merlot varietal to reveal its true character and potential when grown in the sandy, deep red clay soils of the Côtes de Blaye. With a nose of deep red fruits, mint, coffee and gravel, this red has a palate of dark plum and cassis with touches of sandalwood and menthol. The tannins add an interesting textural element to this wine's finish without being too overpowering. Pair with a steak or whatever else you may be grilling this evening, sit back and enjoy a stellar sampling of Bordeaux from the praised 2005 vintage (without breaking the bank).

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Branko Pinot Grigio 2007

Igor Erzetic, owner of Branko, is an extremely dedicated individual who farms his six hectares of vineyards in the Collio DOC with such passion and grace that his wines are frequent contenders at Gambero Rosso's Three Glass finals. Once again, this year Igor's Pinot Grigio 2007 garnered the prestigious 'tre bicchieri' award for the third vintage running and it is now considered one of the most ultimate expressions of the varietal. Who can argue with a record as such and I have to admit that I find the Branko Pinot Grigio possesses a profound depth of fruit and structure that is often times fleeting in this somewhat pedestrian varietal. Igor's father, Branko, persists tirelessly in the vineyards and with his son's mastery of the cellar; the pair is unstoppable. Interestingly, the fermentation of this bottling is divided between 80% stainless steel tank and 20% 500 litre French wooden barrels, both undergoing a 7-month aging process. The combination is magical and Igor creates an olfactory synergy with ever sip. From aromas of roasted hazelnuts, spiced fruits and resin, this wine has an inviting and warm palate of full-bodied citrus inspired fruits and a Chardonnay-like viscosity. The complexity of this white permeates the senses and its soft yet refreshing finish lingers mysteriously on the palate. Perhaps it is the northern hills of Collio, nestled against the Yugoslavian border that give this wine its unique and impressive character or maybe it is the delicate hand of winemaker Igor. Whatever the reason, this white will make any apathetic Pinot Grigio drinker a true convert! Wine snobs beware for Pinot Grigio may be the most underrated grape around...

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Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2007

The story of this wine is plain and simple. Each year, Produttori del Barbaresco, a longtime family cooperative in the Langhe, declasses around 20% of their Nebbiolo production (Nebbiolo that is grown in the Barbaresco district) and bottles it as Nebbiolo 'Langhe.' Think of a 'super second' if you will, a wine of Barbaresco caliber with younger, racier edges and great vibrancy of fruit, all at a fraction of the cost. I cannot recommend this red enough, particularly if you, like myself, are enticed by the hills of Piedmont and the rusticity of fruit and character that they yield. With centuries old skill and dedication in growing Nebbiolo, the families who comprise the Produttori bottle this Nebbiolo as a wine suitable for earlier consumption. Much like the vintage it represents, the 2007 Nebbiolo Langhe is ripe and generous, with bright spicy aromas and deep red fruits. Six months of barrel aging appear to soften the tannins of this juicy, succulent red yet not at the cost of its acidity. With hints of fresh cut violets and anise on the nose and a palate brimming with ripe raspberry, cherry fruit and forest floor, this red possesses the elegance of a much pricier Piedmont offering. Sauté you favorite vegetable and pasta dish and open a bottle of this vibrant red or better yet, grab a case!

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Lafage côté EST Catalan Blanc 2007

Thanks to the collaborative efforts of esteemed winemaker Jean-Marie Lafage and well- respected importer Eric Solomon, the côté EST is my selection of the moment to welcome in the changing of seasons. Only in his thirties, Jean-Marie is becoming somewhat of a legend in the wine world as he manages to turn out exquisitely crafted wines from his estate in the Roussillon as well as work on several projects in Spain and South America. His passion lies with the varietals of the south of France and his côté Est is an example of a completely refreshing, sophisticated, highly aromatic offering of some of France's oldest varietals. Blended of 60% Grenache Blanc and Gris, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Marsanne, this vin de pays glides over the palate with elements of honey, almond peel and delicate citrus. In the glass, a nose of fresh white flowers, citrus zest, pineapple and flint accompanies its gentle flecks of green. Jean-Marie's estate is nestled between the Mediterranean sea on one side and the mountains of the Pyrenees on the other and the influence of neighboring Spain is most definitely present in this superb white. With a supple texture and soft acidity, this wine is surprisingly vibrant and the elements of the cépage work harmoniously together; old vine Grenache adding texture and snappiness, Chardonnay adding weight and Marsanne adding a more exotic honeyed note. Grab a bottle of this one, sit down with a friend and ponder the warmer weather ahead!


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wine #33

Marchesi dè Frescobaldi
Tenuta di Castiglioni Giramonte 2004
Tuscany

In scanning our inventory for end of year, my husband and I decided to take home a bottle of Marchesi dè Frescobaldi's Giramonte 2004 and were extremely pleased to discover this wine still in stock in our cellar! Upon tasting our first sips of this elegant red, I was struck by the wine's voluptuous yet restrained nature and its powerful yet delicate palate. It is almost regal. This item was recently put on our inventory blowout sale so I would suggest acting swiftly if my words convince you. First of all, the name Frescobaldi is probably familiar to most, as this 700 year old winery is no less than a benchmark producer in Tuscany. Their ability to churn out many wines, yet maintain their vineyard profile and regional identity in each has been the key to their success. Ironically, the epic story of this top winery began at Tenuta di Castiglioni (the home of the Giramonte vineyard). This estate lies in the heart of the Florentine hills in the village of Motespertoli where the silty-clay soils and perfect sun exposure give birth to some of the most concentrated and memorable wines of Tuscany. The Giramonte vineyard, entirely replanted in the early 1990s, yielded its first release in 2002 and since its onset, has been garnering much praise and recognition. With a cépage of 80% Merlot and 20% Sangiovese, this 800 case production Super Tuscan embodies the characteristics of 'new world' Tuscany while maintaining its old world charm and integrity with such flair and finesse. Luca Maroni referred to the '03 of this wine as the 2nd best red wine in Italy in his 2006 Annuario del Vini and Antonio Galloni of the Wine Advocate describes the '04 as a wine to keep an eye on for the future. I have to concur with the critics on this one. From its bouquet of earthy blackberry fruit, mint, eucalyptus and balsam fir to its palate of intensely sumptuous dark red fruits and spiced oak, this wine exudes richness and profound character with its compelling and lingering finish of vanilla, cinnamon and menthol. Pair this full bodied, finesse driven red with your favorite roast and partake on a wonderful adventure.