The word Arneis in the local dialect of the Langhe translates to 'little rascal.' This difficult to grow, stubbornly thin skinned white varietal which once played a role as an aromatic subordinate to the reds of Piedmont, much like Viognier to Hermitage in the northern Rhone, has been saved from extinction by a few Piedmont growers to which we owe a world of gratitude. Hence our discussion of Bruno Giacosa begins. Along with other notables as Aldo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa has solely built the superb reputation that Barolo and Barbaresco enjoy today. He has chosen to focus his white production on the little known esoteric varietal of Arneis. Being a meticulous craftsman who has the utmost respect for the land of the Langhe and its vineyards, would you expect anything less than extraordinary from his Roero Arneis? I think not! With unbelievably, unyielding aromatics, this white will have your attention at first sniff. The bouquet conjures scents of white acacia blossoms, fresh picked summer peaches, delicately roasted almonds and ripe apricots. Once you get past the intoxicating nose of this beauty, the palate continues to entice with lush, almost full-bodied fruits, reminiscent of pear, peach, apricot and citrus. Perhaps the most intriguing quality of this indigenous varietal is that although it is so thin skinned and fickle, its palate is deceptively full bodied and rich as if it undergoes malolactic fermentation, yet it does not. The triumphant finish of this Arneis lingers with minerality and focused acidity and a delicate hint of almond skin. I cannot emphasize enough how much I enjoy this varietal and Bruno Giacosa's version is nothing short of amazing. Try this Roero Arneis and you will partake on a truly memorable white wine experience!
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