Goisot Saint Bris

After several weeks of summer traveling, visiting family and friends along our attractive New England coastline, the cool weather has brought me back to my senses and my task of finding the perfect wines for the approaching days of Autumn. We recently tasted several extraordinary wines from the northern Burgundian producer Ghislaine and Jean-Hugues Goisot and although I usually keep my recommendations to one at a time, I feel compelled to endorse a white and a red from this notable grower! The Goisot family estate is traced to the 14th century and is located in the picturesque villages of Saint Bris and Irancy. With completely estate grown vineyards in the appellations of Saint Bris and Côtes d'Auxerre, all of Goisot's wine are vinified in the ancient village within the cellars, dating to the 11th and 12th centuries. In other words, this winery is as 'old school' as you can imagine and their wines reveal such a deceptive purity of character and expression that I was awe struck by their quality and precision. If you are unfamiliar with the wines of the Auxerrois, the wines of the Goisot will surely entice you!

Their 2007 Sauvignon Saint-Bris 'Exogyra Virgula' is classic Sauvignon Blanc (with Sauvignon Gris) from Burgundy's northernmost appellation of Saint-Bris. Much like its neighboring village of Chablis, this white has persistent minerality and focus due to the deep, chalky Kimmeridgien soils of the region. This white could easily rival any of the top bottlings of Sancerre with its bright, complex citrus fruits and vibrant acidity.

The 2006 Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre' Pinot Noir 'Corps de Garge' is also an amazing find. Although this region is planted almost exclusively to white varietals, this red shines on its own merit and Goisot's Pinot Noir is the best in the region, including the area of Chablis in that assessment! Similar to the wines from the villages of Mercurey or Givry, this red has a delicate smoky core with great Pinot Noir acidity and interesting depth thanks to the chalky soils of the town of Irancy. With a bouquet of violets, forest floor and red berries, the palate of this red is harmonious and yielding.

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Goisot 'Saint Bris' 2007 Sauvignon 'Exogyra Virgula'
Goisot Bourgogne 'Côtes d'Auxerre' 2006 Pinot Noir 'Corps de Garde'

La Serena Rosso di Montalcino 2007

There is obvious excitement currently for the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino offerings entering the scene but I would like to highlight a Rosso di Montalcino this week, more specifically, La Serena 2007. This estate has belonged to the Mantengoli family since 1933 and Andrea and Marcello started making high quality Brunello and Rosso in 1988. Originally, with a mere one-hectare parcel under vine, the family has increased their holdings to 8.5 hectares and has just recently completed an extremely avant-garde and environmentally friendly new cellar, designed by Marcello himself. In addition, the dedication and meticulous care of the low yield Sangiovese vines are reflected in every sip of their Rosso and Brunello. The Rosso, much like its big brother counterpart, is brimming with spiced blueberry, raspberry fruit tones and aromas of rose petal, tobacco and cherry. Thanks to 12 months of aging in French and Slovenian oak casks, tonneaux and barriques, there is a toasted oak quality and a silkiness to the tannins that is purely sublime. If this Rosso is any indication of the Brunello to come from the 2007 vintage, there will be much euphoria ahead. Pair this lively yet complex red with anything off the grill and you will be in for a lovely dining experience.

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Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 2008

The word Arneis in the local dialect of the Langhe translates to 'little rascal.' This difficult to grow, stubbornly thin skinned white varietal which once played a role as an aromatic subordinate to the reds of Piedmont, much like Viognier to Hermitage in the northern Rhone, has been saved from extinction by a few Piedmont growers to which we owe a world of gratitude. Hence our discussion of Bruno Giacosa begins. Along with other notables as Aldo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa has solely built the superb reputation that Barolo and Barbaresco enjoy today. He has chosen to focus his white production on the little known esoteric varietal of Arneis. Being a meticulous craftsman who has the utmost respect for the land of the Langhe and its vineyards, would you expect anything less than extraordinary from his Roero Arneis? I think not! With unbelievably, unyielding aromatics, this white will have your attention at first sniff. The bouquet conjures scents of white acacia blossoms, fresh picked summer peaches, delicately roasted almonds and ripe apricots. Once you get past the intoxicating nose of this beauty, the palate continues to entice with lush, almost full-bodied fruits, reminiscent of pear, peach, apricot and citrus. Perhaps the most intriguing quality of this indigenous varietal is that although it is so thin skinned and fickle, its palate is deceptively full bodied and rich as if it undergoes malolactic fermentation, yet it does not. The triumphant finish of this Arneis lingers with minerality and focused acidity and a delicate hint of almond skin. I cannot emphasize enough how much I enjoy this varietal and Bruno Giacosa's version is nothing short of amazing. Try this Roero Arneis and you will partake on a truly memorable white wine experience!


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Bodegas Uno Torrontes 2008

Located in the foothills of the picturesque Andes Mountains, the winery Bodega Uno  may be a bit unknown at present but their wines are so extraordinary and reasonably priced that their anonymity will soon be a thing of the past. Focusing on the indigenous grapes of the area, all of the wines we tasted were originally grown and great representatives of their respective varietals with bright focused fruit and delicate tannins. Today I would like to bring one of their white wines to your attention: Torrontés. Torrontés is the most characteristic and unique white varietal of Argentina and like Malbec, is responsible for the country's growing prestige in the international wine area. This wonderfully refreshing Viognier like varietal is exclusive to Argentina and in my opinion, the ideal alternative to the mundane white selections of summer. With enticing aromas of white flowers, orange citrus zest and stone fruit, this white is a mouthful of exotic flavors, ranging from citrus and peach, with delicate herbal notes and invigorating acidity. Pair its beautiful structure and clean edges with a myriad of foods, including seafood, cheeses, smoked meats or even spicy Asian cuisines. This very well may be the next Pinot Grigio phenomenon!

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Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006

In the valley of Conca d'Oro (the Golden Basin) just south of the town of Panzano are the illustrious vineyards of Fontodi. This estate, dating back to the times of the Roman empire, is at the epicenter of the Chianti Classico region and much like another favorite producer of mine, Felsina, seems to churn out remarkable bottlings year after year and the new release of their 2006 Chianti Classico is no exception. The Manetti family, with three centuries of heritage in the Tuscan region as terracotta manufacturers, decided to purchase the estate in 1968 and it is now Giovanni Manetti who is in charge. Granted this winery has garnered its most praise for its Flaccianello della Pieve bottling but their straight Chianti Classico is well worth a look, particularly for the avid Tuscan collector. This 100% Sangiovese bottling beautifully showcases the philosophy of the Fontodi estate as it represents the soil characteristics of the region thanks to its optimal southern exposure vineyards and the natural marl soil with its excellent drainage. With layers of dusty, tobacco laden cherry fruit on the palate and aromas of spiced plum and earth, this red is rich and yielding and shows all the graciousness of character of the 2006 vintage. If you have yet to discover the wines of Fontodi, this one will have you hooked and like me, you will more than likely become one of Fontodi's new followers for years to come!

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Domaine Morin Bourgogne Chitry 2006

Just when I think I have a handle on Burgundy, I have the opportunity to taste a wine that is completely unfamiliar to me yet somehow incredibly familiar and worthwhile. The wine of which I speak is from the village of Chitry, more specifically, Chitry-le-Fort. This commune in the Auxerrois district of the Yonne department of north eastern France lies closely to the austere region of Chablis and thus, the most remote and northern slice of what is considered Burgundy. Upon greeting the bouquet of Olivier Morin's Chitry, I was quickly reminded of a steely Sancerre or perhaps a minerally, focused Chablis, for the clear, precise, flinty citrus notes and the hint of honeysuckle seemed to conjure memories of traveling in the Loire valley or even spending time in the Champagne region and enjoying white Burgundy years ago. When I began to research this obscure region, the pieces of the puzzle solidified. The soils of the Chitry appellation are comprised of Jurassic clay-limestone from the Kimmeridgian series. The village of Chablis has become famous for its kimmeridgian chalk terroir while the Loire valley boasts an unparalleled limestone terroir. Could this regional wine of Burgundy possess the like? YES. With a rich golden color and flecks of green, this 100% Chardonnay is balanced and harmonious with Sancerre like gunflint and Chablis like minerality that is unyielding. In addition, Olivier's small production Chitry offers a snappy, savage grape skin sensation and texture that is captivating and quite frankly, delicious. With lingering notes of wet slate, mineral and lemon peel, this Chardonnay reveals its complexity and depth. To create the ultimate sensation, pair with escargot, charcuterie, shellfish or foraged mushrooms and take a tour of white Burgundy like never before.



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Lalande Couturier 2005

This past Saturday, we held a small Bordeaux tasting featuring the wines of Jean-Luc Thunevin, the infamous 'bad boy' of the Right Bank. I have to say that there were many standouts from the lineup and for me, perhaps the most surprising wine, was also the most affordable. That brings me to discuss Lalande Couturier 2005. First of all, if Jean-Luc Thunevin is not a familiar name to you, let me enlighten you. Jean-Luc and his wife Murielle Andraud have single-handedly created the 'vins de garage' movement in France. In 1989, they purchased a miniscule .6-hectare parcel in a small valley near Saint Emilion and thus, the 'garage' wine Château Valandraud was born. Since their first release in 1991, they have slowly acquired more and more parcels in various appellations on the Right Bank as well as new properties in the Languedoc and most recently, Margaux. Their philosophy of creating micro-cuvées originating from extremely low yields and incredibly ripe fruit, has garnered the Thunevins the praise of many. The Lalande-Couturier, like all of their wines, speaks of fruit and terroir in a most gracious and memorable manner. Coming from a small 4 hectare vineyard owned by one of Thunevin's employees in the village of St Palais de Blaye, this red Bordeaux is focused, elegant and surprisingly rich. Jean-Luc ferments and ages this red in stainless steel vats and the result is quite impressive. It allows the Merlot varietal to reveal its true character and potential when grown in the sandy, deep red clay soils of the Côtes de Blaye. With a nose of deep red fruits, mint, coffee and gravel, this red has a palate of dark plum and cassis with touches of sandalwood and menthol. The tannins add an interesting textural element to this wine's finish without being too overpowering. Pair with a steak or whatever else you may be grilling this evening, sit back and enjoy a stellar sampling of Bordeaux from the praised 2005 vintage (without breaking the bank).

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