Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2007


The story of this wine is plain and simple. Each year, Produttori del Barbaresco, a longtime family cooperative in the Langhe, declasses around 20% of their Nebbiolo production (Nebbiolo that is grown in the Barbaresco district) and bottles it as Nebbiolo 'Langhe.' Think of a 'super second' if you will, a wine of Barbaresco caliber with younger, racier edges and great vibrancy of fruit, all at a fraction of the cost. I cannot recommend this red enough, particularly if you, like myself, are enticed by the hills of Piedmont and the rusticity of fruit and character that they yield. With centuries old skill and dedication in growing Nebbiolo, the families who comprise the Produttori bottle this Nebbiolo as a wine suitable for earlier consumption. Much like the vintage it represents, the 2007 Nebbiolo Langhe is ripe and generous, with bright spicy aromas and deep red fruits. Six months of barrel aging appear to soften the tannins of this juicy, succulent red yet not at the cost of its acidity. With hints of fresh cut violets and anise on the nose and a palate brimming with ripe raspberry, cherry fruit and forest floor, this red possesses the elegance of a much pricier Piedmont offering. Sauté you favorite vegetable and pasta dish and open a bottle of this vibrant red or better yet, grab a case!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Lafage côté EST Catalan Blanc 2007


Thanks to the collaborative efforts of esteemed winemaker Jean-Marie Lafage and well- respected importer Eric Solomon, the côté EST is my selection of the moment to welcome in the changing of seasons. Only in his thirties, Jean-Marie is becoming somewhat of a legend in the wine world as he manages to turn out exquisitely crafted wines from his estate in the Roussillon as well as work on several projects in Spain and South America. His passion lies with the varietals of the south of France and his côté Est is an example of a completely refreshing, sophisticated, highly aromatic offering of some of France's oldest varietals. Blended of 60% Grenache Blanc and Gris, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Marsanne, this vin de pays glides over the palate with elements of honey, almond peel and delicate citrus. In the glass, a nose of fresh white flowers, citrus zest, pineapple and flint accompanies its gentle flecks of green. Jean-Marie's estate is nestled between the Mediterranean sea on one side and the mountains of the Pyrenees on the other and the influence of neighboring Spain is most definitely present in this superb white. With a supple texture and soft acidity, this wine is surprisingly vibrant and the elements of the cépage work harmoniously together; old vine Grenache adding texture and snappiness, Chardonnay adding weight and Marsanne adding a more exotic honeyed note. Grab a bottle of this one, sit down with a friend and ponder the warmer weather ahead!


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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Schug Pinot Noir 2006 Carneros


I have to admit that I am sometimes skeptical of domestic wineries, particularly those where seven or eight different varietals all seem to flourish in one appellation. It is essential for grapes to suffer, to weather the rain, the fog, the sun, the frost, etc. That brings me to discuss Schug Carneros Estate and the merits of their Carneros Pinot Noir. The California wine industry would not be what it is today without the influence of such visionaries as Walter Schug. Being the founding winemaker of Joseph Phelps in the 1970s, Walter Schug crafted California's first proprietary red blend (Insignia) and was also responsible for the legendary vineyard designated Cabernets from Bacchus and Eisele vineyards. With this experience and his love of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, he founded his current winery in 1980 where the cool, marine climate of Carneros called his name. His 50 acre estate is situated in the southern lowlands of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, just southwest of the town of Sonoma. This region benefits from the cool, coastal air of the Bay and the Pacific Ocean and is blanketed with a brisk fog throughout the summer months. This fog slowly burns off during the late morning hours and is then replaced midday by winds that rush through what is known at the Petaluma Gap, a break between two mountains which creates a wind-tunnel across the vineyards. Why is this microclimate so important? It goes back to my earlier point about grapes and their need to strive for existence. All of these factors are essential for great Pinot Noir, that fickle thin-skinned red grape and Schug Carneros Estate respects the varietal in all of its glory. The 2006 Carneros release shows all of the purity of fruit that one would expect from a Burgundian Pinot Noir but with a brightness and abundance of flavor that is unmistakably Carneros. By carefully blending several separately vinified lots, Schug creates a wine with great complexity and elegance. Its bouquet of spiced red fruits and toasted oak is complemented by a palate of red cherry and strawberry fruit tones, smooth, silky tannins and gentle acidity. Just a whisper of eucalyptus lingers on this wine's spicy, zesty finish. Pair this red with duck, lamb or even your grilled fish of choice and you will not be disappointed.

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