We have been longtime supporters of the Cotarella brothers and their winery in Umbria and as anticipated, the 2008 release of their Falesco Vitiano Bianco is exuberantly fresh, exciting and the ideal choice for my current wine of the week! Founded in 1979 by brothers Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella, Falesco is located in the municipality of Montecchio near the border of Lazio in the southwestern corner of Umbria. Flanked by the Tyrrhenian Sea on the west and Italy's mountainous center to the east, the dry, perfectly drained, volcanic terroir of the region imparts a bold, refreshing quality to this bottling. With a unique native blend of Vermentino and Verdicchio, this white, with its harmonious symphony of flavors, gives the taster a true picture of two less than mainstream varietals in a somewhat familiar yet incredibly inspiring fashion. With aromas of fresh white flowers, tangerine peel and wet slate, the palate of this white reveals great minerality, focus and complex herb-tinged citrus flavors. The Vermentino is showcased in the wine's somewhat briny edges and ample acidity while the body, weight and complexity can be attributed to the Verdicchio. The bright, lingering acidity of this wine's finish make it ever so appealing with a myriad of foods. You may want to grab more than a bottle of this one as it could turn out to be your favorite white wine of the season!
Tucked between the picturesque landscapes of the Valle d'Arbia and the wild, sun drenched Valle d'Orcia lies the village of Montalcino. If you have ever had the occasion of visiting Siena and its environs, you would probably agree with me when I say that words cannot even begin to describe the splendor of this region. The hill upon which Montalcino sits is said to have first been settled during Etruscan times and the initial documents of a 'Brunello' red wine in the area date to the early 14th century. The reason I mention the above is because every once and a while, I come across a wine that embodies history in a glass, hence, my suggestion of Tenutua Friggiali's Rosso di Montalcino. Hailing from the much-adored 2004 vintage, this Rosso di Montalcino offers a glimpse of the early potential of Brunello's Sangiovese Grosso. Owned by the Peluso Centolani family (also landholders of Tenuta Pietranera), the vineyards of this estate lie on the southwest slope of Montalcino. The characteristics of the terroir of this region impart ample richness, acidity and great minerality to this red. With incredible balance and a vein of acidity that carries through its silky, red fruit palate, the layers of flavors of this young vine Brunello show elements of mineral, earth, tobacco, plum and wild raspberry. Rosso di Montalcino may live in the shadow of the more esteemed Brunello di Montalcino which matures slowly and regally, yet, do not neglect the appeal of one of Italy's most drinkable, complex and elegant Sangiovese bottlings!
Igor Erzetic, owner of Branko, is an extremely dedicated individual who farms his six hectares of vineyards in the Collio DOC with such passion and grace that his wines are frequent contenders at Gambero Rosso's Three Glass finals. Once again, this year Igor's Pinot Grigio 2007 garnered the prestigious 'tre bicchieri' award for the third vintage running and it is now considered one of the most ultimate expressions of the varietal. Who can argue with a record as such and I have to admit that I find the Branko Pinot Grigio possesses a profound depth of fruit and structure that is often times fleeting in this somewhat pedestrian varietal. Igor's father, Branko, persists tirelessly in the vineyards and with his son's mastery of the cellar; the pair is unstoppable. Interestingly, the fermentation of this bottling is divided between 80% stainless steel tank and 20% 500 litre French wooden barrels, both undergoing a 7-month aging process. The combination is magical and Igor creates an olfactory synergy with ever sip. From aromas of roasted hazelnuts, spiced fruits and resin, this wine has an inviting and warm palate of full-bodied citrus inspired fruits and a Chardonnay-like viscosity. The complexity of this white permeates the senses and its soft yet refreshing finish lingers mysteriously on the palate. Perhaps it is the northern hills of Collio, nestled against the Yugoslavian border that give this wine its unique and impressive character or maybe it is the delicate hand of winemaker Igor. Whatever the reason, this white will make any apathetic Pinot Grigio drinker a true convert! Wine snobs beware for Pinot Grigio may be the most underrated grape around...
