Igor Erzetic, owner of Branko, is an extremely dedicated individual who farms his six hectares of vineyards in the Collio DOC with such passion and grace that his wines are frequent contenders at Gambero Rosso's Three Glass finals. Once again, this year Igor's Pinot Grigio 2007 garnered the prestigious 'tre bicchieri' award for the third vintage running and it is now considered one of the most ultimate expressions of the varietal. Who can argue with a record as such and I have to admit that I find the Branko Pinot Grigio possesses a profound depth of fruit and structure that is often times fleeting in this somewhat pedestrian varietal. Igor's father, Branko, persists tirelessly in the vineyards and with his son's mastery of the cellar; the pair is unstoppable. Interestingly, the fermentation of this bottling is divided between 80% stainless steel tank and 20% 500 litre French wooden barrels, both undergoing a 7-month aging process. The combination is magical and Igor creates an olfactory synergy with ever sip. From aromas of roasted hazelnuts, spiced fruits and resin, this wine has an inviting and warm palate of full-bodied citrus inspired fruits and a Chardonnay-like viscosity. The complexity of this white permeates the senses and its soft yet refreshing finish lingers mysteriously on the palate. Perhaps it is the northern hills of Collio, nestled against the Yugoslavian border that give this wine its unique and impressive character or maybe it is the delicate hand of winemaker Igor. Whatever the reason, this white will make any apathetic Pinot Grigio drinker a true convert! Wine snobs beware for Pinot Grigio may be the most underrated grape around...
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