Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2007


The story of this wine is plain and simple. Each year, Produttori del Barbaresco, a longtime family cooperative in the Langhe, declasses around 20% of their Nebbiolo production (Nebbiolo that is grown in the Barbaresco district) and bottles it as Nebbiolo 'Langhe.' Think of a 'super second' if you will, a wine of Barbaresco caliber with younger, racier edges and great vibrancy of fruit, all at a fraction of the cost. I cannot recommend this red enough, particularly if you, like myself, are enticed by the hills of Piedmont and the rusticity of fruit and character that they yield. With centuries old skill and dedication in growing Nebbiolo, the families who comprise the Produttori bottle this Nebbiolo as a wine suitable for earlier consumption. Much like the vintage it represents, the 2007 Nebbiolo Langhe is ripe and generous, with bright spicy aromas and deep red fruits. Six months of barrel aging appear to soften the tannins of this juicy, succulent red yet not at the cost of its acidity. With hints of fresh cut violets and anise on the nose and a palate brimming with ripe raspberry, cherry fruit and forest floor, this red possesses the elegance of a much pricier Piedmont offering. Sauté you favorite vegetable and pasta dish and open a bottle of this vibrant red or better yet, grab a case!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Lafage côté EST Catalan Blanc 2007


Thanks to the collaborative efforts of esteemed winemaker Jean-Marie Lafage and well- respected importer Eric Solomon, the côté EST is my selection of the moment to welcome in the changing of seasons. Only in his thirties, Jean-Marie is becoming somewhat of a legend in the wine world as he manages to turn out exquisitely crafted wines from his estate in the Roussillon as well as work on several projects in Spain and South America. His passion lies with the varietals of the south of France and his côté Est is an example of a completely refreshing, sophisticated, highly aromatic offering of some of France's oldest varietals. Blended of 60% Grenache Blanc and Gris, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Marsanne, this vin de pays glides over the palate with elements of honey, almond peel and delicate citrus. In the glass, a nose of fresh white flowers, citrus zest, pineapple and flint accompanies its gentle flecks of green. Jean-Marie's estate is nestled between the Mediterranean sea on one side and the mountains of the Pyrenees on the other and the influence of neighboring Spain is most definitely present in this superb white. With a supple texture and soft acidity, this wine is surprisingly vibrant and the elements of the cépage work harmoniously together; old vine Grenache adding texture and snappiness, Chardonnay adding weight and Marsanne adding a more exotic honeyed note. Grab a bottle of this one, sit down with a friend and ponder the warmer weather ahead!


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Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Schug Pinot Noir 2006 Carneros


I have to admit that I am sometimes skeptical of domestic wineries, particularly those where seven or eight different varietals all seem to flourish in one appellation. It is essential for grapes to suffer, to weather the rain, the fog, the sun, the frost, etc. That brings me to discuss Schug Carneros Estate and the merits of their Carneros Pinot Noir. The California wine industry would not be what it is today without the influence of such visionaries as Walter Schug. Being the founding winemaker of Joseph Phelps in the 1970s, Walter Schug crafted California's first proprietary red blend (Insignia) and was also responsible for the legendary vineyard designated Cabernets from Bacchus and Eisele vineyards. With this experience and his love of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, he founded his current winery in 1980 where the cool, marine climate of Carneros called his name. His 50 acre estate is situated in the southern lowlands of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, just southwest of the town of Sonoma. This region benefits from the cool, coastal air of the Bay and the Pacific Ocean and is blanketed with a brisk fog throughout the summer months. This fog slowly burns off during the late morning hours and is then replaced midday by winds that rush through what is known at the Petaluma Gap, a break between two mountains which creates a wind-tunnel across the vineyards. Why is this microclimate so important? It goes back to my earlier point about grapes and their need to strive for existence. All of these factors are essential for great Pinot Noir, that fickle thin-skinned red grape and Schug Carneros Estate respects the varietal in all of its glory. The 2006 Carneros release shows all of the purity of fruit that one would expect from a Burgundian Pinot Noir but with a brightness and abundance of flavor that is unmistakably Carneros. By carefully blending several separately vinified lots, Schug creates a wine with great complexity and elegance. Its bouquet of spiced red fruits and toasted oak is complemented by a palate of red cherry and strawberry fruit tones, smooth, silky tannins and gentle acidity. Just a whisper of eucalyptus lingers on this wine's spicy, zesty finish. Pair this red with duck, lamb or even your grilled fish of choice and you will not be disappointed.

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Friday, February 27, 2009

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2008

The story of Kim Crawford wines is not one that begins in a historical chateau or even in a winemaking family, it is a modern saga of a husband and wife who decided to pursue their strengths, support their family, and start making wine. Kim Crawford was raised in New Zealand's Waikato region where sprawling green meadowlands and dairy farms are plentiful, not vineyards. His wife Erica, native to South Africa, had a background in marketing. Together, the couple established Kim Crawford wines in 1996 after Kim had spent several years working in other New Zealand wineries. At that time, they were considered a 'virtual winery' so to speak as they did not own a winemaking facility or vineyards. Regardless, the appeal of winemaker Kim's first releases with their clean, uncluttered style sent this label soaring and in 1999 this urban family from Auckland built a tasting room in Te Awanga in Hawkes' Bay and then in 2000, bought a winery in Marlborough. They also began purchasing land to secure grape supply since demand for Marlborough wines were at their peak. The rest, as they say, is history for today, Kim Crawford wines are some of the most desirable of New Zealand and their label can be found on many a wine list around the globe.

As pleasantly expected, the
2008 release of their Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc delivers all of that natural fruitiness for which New Zealand wines are known. In addition, it possesses a succulence and richness that is signature Kim Crawford. With a Riesling like sharpness on the nose, this pale green Sauvignon Blanc has a plethora of aromas and flavors.. Scents of tropical fruits, citrus, nettle and herbaceous aromas awake the senses and its palate of firm acidity and minerality greet every sip. Notes of pineapple and grapefruit are evident in each whopping mouthful and it is the wine's acidity that lingers softly. Ideal with seafood, salads chèvre or your chicken entree of choice, there is no mistaking this wine's appeal!

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Scagliola Barbera d'Asti Frem 2007


Poet Giosue' Carducci spoke of "generous Barbera," one which makes all who drink it feel invigorated. That liveliness of spirit is what draws me to the varietal and although it lives in the shadow of Piedmont's Nebbiolo grape, Barbera is deceptively intriguing and in my opinion, one of the best kept secrets of Piedmont. Barbera is the second most widely planted red grape in Italy next to Sangiovese and its origins can be traced back as far as the 13th century. The grape reaches its true potential though in the Langhe, more specifically in the DOCs of Asti, Alba and Monferrato. The Scagliola brothers, Maggiorino and Mario, inherited a small estate on a hillside at San Siro in the town of Calosso, in the centre of the Asti province. Although Calosso is one of the municipalities with the most vineyards in Italy, it is thanks to families like the Scagliolas and their commitment to quality that Asti Langhe is being safeguarded as an area of much notability. With meticulous vineyard management and a state of the art winemaking facility, Scagliola's quest for excellence is being realized, spanning their prized Moscatos and their reds. The 'Frem' Barbera possesses all of the brightness of fruit and high acid that one would expect in a young Barbera, coupled with very soft tannins and deep, dark berry fruits. With aromas of wild currants and blackberry, this red has the ideal amount of acidity and depth, giving it the ability to pair with grilled meats or heavy cheeses as well as lighter tomato dishes and fish. Think of all of the delicacy of Pinot Noir and the body of Zinfandel. Elements of fruit jam and menthol linger on this wine's finish and its lively acidity are so inviting that another sip is surely in order! Feel free to age it too if you are so inclined.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Domaine Manciat-Poncet


Domaine Manciat-Poncet
Saint-Véran 'Vieilles Vignes' 2006

Burgundy

Whenever someone at the Shoppe asks us to recommend a white that has body and weight yet subtle or no oak, we always gravitate to the Mâcon. The whites from this region of southern Burgundy frequently offer Chardonnay in its true unadulterated state. Being one of the most versatile grapes on the planet, Chardonnay ranges from lean and bracing with delicate citrus to full bodied and creamy with tropical and exotic fruits. The Mâcon style embraces the former, yet alas, this white varietal has incredible texture, weight and viscosity, even in its pure state. You have probably deduced by now that my preference for the varietal is the French style and Domaine Manciat-Poncet's Saint-Véran is my choice of the moment! Claude Manciat is no novice to the wine world and his reputation in the Mâcon is one of the finest. Claude and his family practice meticulous care in the vineyards as well as in the winery and their wines reflect that. This Saint-Véran comes from a tiny plot of old vine Chardonnay, one with vines over 47 years in age and yields that are 35% lower than the allowable average of the appellation. In addition, the Manciat's are among the few remaining vignerons in the region to continue harvesting by hand. This allows them to ferment whole cluster and extract the maximum amount of flavor from their grapes. With a combination of stainless steel fermentation and cask fruit in new to three year old oak, this white is a harmonious symphony of fruit, acidity and oak. With delicate orchard fruit aromas and mineral tones, the nose of this wine is complemented by a palate of rich, focused citrus fruits, creamy spiced notes and a long, lingering, mineral-driven finish. Not to mention, this white has the ability to pair with just about anything. Beginners or connoisseurs alike, the Manciat-Poncet is the choice for you!

Friday, February 6, 2009

Bodegas Ateca


Bodegas Ateca
Garnacha de Fuego Calatayud Old Vines 2007

Spain

Journey to Spain's southern wine region of Jumilla and you will find many old vine plantings of Monastrell. Even more rare though, are the extremely old vineyards of Garnacha. The Garnacha de Feugo comes from such a vineyard, one comprised entirely of Garnacha with vines averaging from 60 to 80 years in age. Despite the poor, gravelly soil of this region, the mature gnarled vines, located about 3,000 feet above sea level, produce some of the finest grapes possible in this arid, desolate area. Perhaps that explains the overall intensity and focus of this superbly crafted red wine. The cooperative efforts of the Gil family of Jumilla and importer Jorge Ordonez brought this project to fruition. With only the ripest clusters of berries selected for the bottling, the Garnacha de Fuego is power packed with sweet cherries, dark plum and a wisp of freshly cracked white pepper. Opening with aromas of floral scents, spice box and sweet berry preserves, the palate of this red possesses layers of cherry, raspberry and blueberry fruits with a hint of mineral, anise and delicate spice. The southern Rhone beware, for Jumilla is coming to town!