Lalande Couturier 2005

This past Saturday, we held a small Bordeaux tasting featuring the wines of Jean-Luc Thunevin, the infamous 'bad boy' of the Right Bank. I have to say that there were many standouts from the lineup and for me, perhaps the most surprising wine, was also the most affordable. That brings me to discuss Lalande Couturier 2005. First of all, if Jean-Luc Thunevin is not a familiar name to you, let me enlighten you. Jean-Luc and his wife Murielle Andraud have single-handedly created the 'vins de garage' movement in France. In 1989, they purchased a miniscule .6-hectare parcel in a small valley near Saint Emilion and thus, the 'garage' wine Château Valandraud was born. Since their first release in 1991, they have slowly acquired more and more parcels in various appellations on the Right Bank as well as new properties in the Languedoc and most recently, Margaux. Their philosophy of creating micro-cuvées originating from extremely low yields and incredibly ripe fruit, has garnered the Thunevins the praise of many. The Lalande-Couturier, like all of their wines, speaks of fruit and terroir in a most gracious and memorable manner. Coming from a small 4 hectare vineyard owned by one of Thunevin's employees in the village of St Palais de Blaye, this red Bordeaux is focused, elegant and surprisingly rich. Jean-Luc ferments and ages this red in stainless steel vats and the result is quite impressive. It allows the Merlot varietal to reveal its true character and potential when grown in the sandy, deep red clay soils of the Côtes de Blaye. With a nose of deep red fruits, mint, coffee and gravel, this red has a palate of dark plum and cassis with touches of sandalwood and menthol. The tannins add an interesting textural element to this wine's finish without being too overpowering. Pair with a steak or whatever else you may be grilling this evening, sit back and enjoy a stellar sampling of Bordeaux from the praised 2005 vintage (without breaking the bank).

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Falesco Vitiano Bianco 2008

We have been longtime supporters of the Cotarella brothers and their winery in Umbria and as anticipated, the 2008 release of their Falesco Vitiano Bianco is exuberantly fresh, exciting and the ideal choice for my current wine of the week! Founded in 1979 by brothers Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella, Falesco is located in the municipality of Montecchio near the border of Lazio in the southwestern corner of Umbria. Flanked by the Tyrrhenian Sea on the west and Italy's mountainous center to the east, the dry, perfectly drained, volcanic terroir of the region imparts a bold, refreshing quality to this bottling. With a unique native blend of Vermentino and Verdicchio, this white, with its harmonious symphony of flavors, gives the taster a true picture of two less than mainstream varietals in a somewhat familiar yet incredibly inspiring fashion. With aromas of fresh white flowers, tangerine peel and wet slate, the palate of this white reveals great minerality, focus and complex herb-tinged citrus flavors. The Vermentino is showcased in the wine's somewhat briny edges and ample acidity while the body, weight and complexity can be attributed to the Verdicchio. The bright, lingering acidity of this wine's finish make it ever so appealing with a myriad of foods. You may want to grab more than a bottle of this one as it could turn out to be your favorite white wine of the season!

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Tenuta Friggiali Rosso di Montalcino 2004

Tucked between the picturesque landscapes of the Valle d'Arbia and the wild, sun drenched Valle d'Orcia lies the village of Montalcino. If you have ever had the occasion of visiting Siena and its environs, you would probably agree with me when I say that words cannot even begin to describe the splendor of this region. The hill upon which Montalcino sits is said to have first been settled during Etruscan times and the initial documents of a 'Brunello' red wine in the area date to the early 14th century. The reason I mention the above is because every once and a while, I come across a wine that embodies history in a glass, hence, my suggestion of Tenutua Friggiali's Rosso di Montalcino. Hailing from the much-adored 2004 vintage, this Rosso di Montalcino offers a glimpse of the early potential of Brunello's Sangiovese Grosso. Owned by the Peluso Centolani family (also landholders of Tenuta Pietranera), the vineyards of this estate lie on the southwest slope of Montalcino. The characteristics of the terroir of this region impart ample richness, acidity and great minerality to this red. With incredible balance and a vein of acidity that carries through its silky, red fruit palate, the layers of flavors of this young vine Brunello show elements of mineral, earth, tobacco, plum and wild raspberry. Rosso di Montalcino may live in the shadow of the more esteemed Brunello di Montalcino which matures slowly and regally, yet, do not neglect the appeal of one of Italy's most drinkable, complex and elegant Sangiovese bottlings!

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Branko Pinot Grigio 2007

Igor Erzetic, owner of Branko, is an extremely dedicated individual who farms his six hectares of vineyards in the Collio DOC with such passion and grace that his wines are frequent contenders at Gambero Rosso's Three Glass finals. Once again, this year Igor's Pinot Grigio 2007 garnered the prestigious 'tre bicchieri' award for the third vintage running and it is now considered one of the most ultimate expressions of the varietal. Who can argue with a record as such and I have to admit that I find the Branko Pinot Grigio possesses a profound depth of fruit and structure that is often times fleeting in this somewhat pedestrian varietal. Igor's father, Branko, persists tirelessly in the vineyards and with his son's mastery of the cellar; the pair is unstoppable. Interestingly, the fermentation of this bottling is divided between 80% stainless steel tank and 20% 500 litre French wooden barrels, both undergoing a 7-month aging process. The combination is magical and Igor creates an olfactory synergy with ever sip. From aromas of roasted hazelnuts, spiced fruits and resin, this wine has an inviting and warm palate of full-bodied citrus inspired fruits and a Chardonnay-like viscosity. The complexity of this white permeates the senses and its soft yet refreshing finish lingers mysteriously on the palate. Perhaps it is the northern hills of Collio, nestled against the Yugoslavian border that give this wine its unique and impressive character or maybe it is the delicate hand of winemaker Igor. Whatever the reason, this white will make any apathetic Pinot Grigio drinker a true convert! Wine snobs beware for Pinot Grigio may be the most underrated grape around...

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Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2007

The story of this wine is plain and simple. Each year, Produttori del Barbaresco, a longtime family cooperative in the Langhe, declasses around 20% of their Nebbiolo production (Nebbiolo that is grown in the Barbaresco district) and bottles it as Nebbiolo 'Langhe.' Think of a 'super second' if you will, a wine of Barbaresco caliber with younger, racier edges and great vibrancy of fruit, all at a fraction of the cost. I cannot recommend this red enough, particularly if you, like myself, are enticed by the hills of Piedmont and the rusticity of fruit and character that they yield. With centuries old skill and dedication in growing Nebbiolo, the families who comprise the Produttori bottle this Nebbiolo as a wine suitable for earlier consumption. Much like the vintage it represents, the 2007 Nebbiolo Langhe is ripe and generous, with bright spicy aromas and deep red fruits. Six months of barrel aging appear to soften the tannins of this juicy, succulent red yet not at the cost of its acidity. With hints of fresh cut violets and anise on the nose and a palate brimming with ripe raspberry, cherry fruit and forest floor, this red possesses the elegance of a much pricier Piedmont offering. Sauté you favorite vegetable and pasta dish and open a bottle of this vibrant red or better yet, grab a case!

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Lafage côté EST Catalan Blanc 2007

Thanks to the collaborative efforts of esteemed winemaker Jean-Marie Lafage and well- respected importer Eric Solomon, the côté EST is my selection of the moment to welcome in the changing of seasons. Only in his thirties, Jean-Marie is becoming somewhat of a legend in the wine world as he manages to turn out exquisitely crafted wines from his estate in the Roussillon as well as work on several projects in Spain and South America. His passion lies with the varietals of the south of France and his côté Est is an example of a completely refreshing, sophisticated, highly aromatic offering of some of France's oldest varietals. Blended of 60% Grenache Blanc and Gris, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Marsanne, this vin de pays glides over the palate with elements of honey, almond peel and delicate citrus. In the glass, a nose of fresh white flowers, citrus zest, pineapple and flint accompanies its gentle flecks of green. Jean-Marie's estate is nestled between the Mediterranean sea on one side and the mountains of the Pyrenees on the other and the influence of neighboring Spain is most definitely present in this superb white. With a supple texture and soft acidity, this wine is surprisingly vibrant and the elements of the cépage work harmoniously together; old vine Grenache adding texture and snappiness, Chardonnay adding weight and Marsanne adding a more exotic honeyed note. Grab a bottle of this one, sit down with a friend and ponder the warmer weather ahead!


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Schug Pinot Noir 2006 Carneros

I have to admit that I am sometimes skeptical of domestic wineries, particularly those where seven or eight different varietals all seem to flourish in one appellation. It is essential for grapes to suffer, to weather the rain, the fog, the sun, the frost, etc. That brings me to discuss Schug Carneros Estate and the merits of their Carneros Pinot Noir. The California wine industry would not be what it is today without the influence of such visionaries as Walter Schug. Being the founding winemaker of Joseph Phelps in the 1970s, Walter Schug crafted California's first proprietary red blend (Insignia) and was also responsible for the legendary vineyard designated Cabernets from Bacchus and Eisele vineyards. With this experience and his love of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, he founded his current winery in 1980 where the cool, marine climate of Carneros called his name. His 50 acre estate is situated in the southern lowlands of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, just southwest of the town of Sonoma. This region benefits from the cool, coastal air of the Bay and the Pacific Ocean and is blanketed with a brisk fog throughout the summer months. This fog slowly burns off during the late morning hours and is then replaced midday by winds that rush through what is known at the Petaluma Gap, a break between two mountains which creates a wind-tunnel across the vineyards. Why is this microclimate so important? It goes back to my earlier point about grapes and their need to strive for existence. All of these factors are essential for great Pinot Noir, that fickle thin-skinned red grape and Schug Carneros Estate respects the varietal in all of its glory. The 2006 Carneros release shows all of the purity of fruit that one would expect from a Burgundian Pinot Noir but with a brightness and abundance of flavor that is unmistakably Carneros. By carefully blending several separately vinified lots, Schug creates a wine with great complexity and elegance. Its bouquet of spiced red fruits and toasted oak is complemented by a palate of red cherry and strawberry fruit tones, smooth, silky tannins and gentle acidity. Just a whisper of eucalyptus lingers on this wine's spicy, zesty finish. Pair this red with duck, lamb or even your grilled fish of choice and you will not be disappointed.

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